Venice and Mars
The last two times that I visited Italy were in the Spring. There is no better time, especially for a trip to Venice. In fact, I think that Venice at Easter must be like being on another planet - it is just so different from Atlanta that it is hard to believe that it is really on the same planet. If you can make the trip to Venice during holy week you should. Like most of the popular Italian tourist cities, Venice is very crowded the week before Easter and the prices are at peak, but the energy level has to be experienced to be believed - especially if the weather is nice. Venice when crowded is much nicer than Florence or Sienna - I think that the lack of cars and motorcycles makes the difference. The Venetian crowds have promenade pace, whereas crowds in Firenze and Sienna are just crowded.
As long as the air is blowing in from any direction but north the Venetian air is clean and invigorating. The water in the canals is a pale opalescent green - a very beautiful color that I have not seen elsewhere. At this time of year the water is also clean and not infragrant.
No where else can you visit a city like this. Dense and compact yet utterly clean, quiet and, even with great crowds, unhurried.
Then stay for a few days after Easter. The crowds evaporate and you have the most beautiful city in the world almost to yourself.
Venice shuts down not long after dark. It is as if everyone is exhausted from all the walking. It becomes very quiet. You may hear the occasional sounds of footsteps echoing off the stone and water. Murmured words. An acapella trio chanting a chant in a spot known for its acoustic reverberations.
Every part of the city has a refined beauty. Most of it has been in place long enough to have been reconsidered and rebuilt if it was done wrong the first time. You know instinctively as you walk, or float, through that you are a part of a continuum of admirers, and you feel good about this.
I try to think of an analogy to cities of another time but I don't think there is one. Even before the industrial revolution most real cities were filled with carts, and the streets were filled with waste. In an utopian world, Venice could serve as a model for the City. Yet the Venetians are moving away. The City resident population drops annually. The locals are moving away in order to live in - what - more exciting places? Places with better internet? Places where you can get in your car and drive?
And the boats. Never on earth have you seen such beautiful boats.
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